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Paper Vase

Origami

If you are looking for a model that impresses the socks off of everybody, you are looking for the origami vase. Only a single piece of paper is used in the construction, but the mix of negative space and angular contrast gives the illusion of several models combined. Patterns and prints bring out the eye catching nature of this lovely paper vase. Most amazing is the clever locking mechanism that supports the entire structure from the center. The resulting vase is water tight, provided that your paper is, and could hold living or origami flowers.

Allot of folding goes into getting the model ready for assembly. Make sure that you crease all of the folds very well, they are all very crucial to the final shape. Try not to be discouraged by the number of folds, they are all very simple. The tricky part is after the folding is complete, when you pop the model into shape. Regardless of how tricky it may be, the origami vase is just so pretty that it is always worth the effort.

To start out, use a square piece of paper, pattern side down. Valley fold the paper in thirds. You may recall the pinwheel model where we discuss easily folding a paper in thirds, by folding in quarters and cutting off one quarter. Crease the folds and unfold.

Valley fold the paper in half, bisecting the center third. Strong crease, and unfold.

Valley fold the top and bottom thirds in half. Crease well and unfold. Your paper is now folded into sixths.

We now will bisect the first, third, fourth, and sixth sections in half. To begin, valley fold the paper so that the bottom edge meets the top valley fold. This will bisect the third sixth. Crease well and unfold.

Bisect the fourth sixth by valley folding the top edge to meet the bottom valley fold. Crease well, and unfold.

Bisect the first and last sixths by valley folding the top edge to the closest valley fold, and the bottom edge similiarly. Crease well and unfold.

Rotate the paper 90 degrees, so that all the folds you made now run vertically through the paper.

Repeat the nine folds you made previously, which will nearly create a 12 by 12 grid, except that there will be four larger square in the center of the four quadrants of the paper.

Horizontally colapse the paper from the center by valley folding the folds just to left and right of the center fold, and mountain folding the folds next to them.

Verically colapse the paper in the same way, valley folding the folds above and below the center, and mountain folding the creases next to them.

With the paper colapse to create trenches in the paper, turn the model over to fold the vase locks.

The locks are positioned at the center of the four edges of the paper. Begin the vase lock with a squash fold.

A squash fold is accomplished by putting your fingers at the bottom of the first valley crease, and using your other finger to lift the top layer, folding it backwards over your fingers.

As you fold the paper over the crease, the top edge will split and begin to meet again in the middle.

Flatten the fold so that a diamond is created.

Repeat the squash fold four the other three sides.

Finish the lock off with two diagonal valley folds that split the lock. Do this with all of the vase locks.

Crease the folds very well, and unfold them flat. Turn the model over.

Valley fold the left and right edges to meet in the center.

Valley fold the top and bottom edges to also meet in the middle.

Slide the tabs on the left and right of the top and bottom folds underneath the pockets created by the left and right locks.

Valley fold the lock creases that you had made. This fold locks the vase into shape.

Now that you have a small flat piece of paper that isn't very impressive, you are all done folding. Turn the model over.

The tricky part of the model is teasing the sides of the vase into shape.

Reach underneath the first layer and pull one of the sides out from under.

Straighten the side out so that half of the bottom of the vase rises into the air.

Reshape the creases into folds, and rotate the model.

Pull the opposite side of the model out and into position.

The other two sides should come into shape much easier. You will probably warp the model during this process, which is fine. Just watch the locks to make sure they don't give.

As long as the locks stay in place, you should be able to stick a finger into the vase and finish working it into shape. There is some accounting for taste here, some people like the top flat, I prefer it to be a bit rounded, which helps the locks to stay secure.


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